Bussana Vecchia, in Italy, has lived many lives, transforming from a ghost village to a Ligurian artists’ hub. The 1887 earthquake, which shaped the geography of the Ligurian coast, turned Bussana into an attraction as a ghost town, with its church without a ceiling. The ruins and signs of abandonment are still there. Still, since the 1950s, the village has been occupied by a community of artists who have decorated the ruins and walls.
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Bussana Vecchia: A Testament to Resilience and Creativity in Liguria
I visited Bussana Vecchia after reading about it in numerous Italian blogs. Online, it seems like an incredibly cool village you shouldn’t miss during a trip to Northern Italy, at least on Italian blogs.
The story is truly fascinating, as it tells of an abandoned village left uninhabited and unsafe after a disastrous earthquake. It was then rebuilt and repopulated by a community of artist squatters. However, the reality is less poetic, as much of the romantic hippie spirit is no longer present.
Bussana Vecchia resembles any other mountain village, but the inhabitants are, for all intents and purposes, occupants rather than legitimate owners.
While some of the art installations are appealing, others appear to be little more than discarded items elevated to the status of art. To be honest, there’s nothing particularly remarkable about them.
Nevertheless, the history of this village is quite fascinating and perhaps the main reason to visit this artists’ village.
The Devastating Bussana Earthquake of 1887
Before becoming Bussana Vecchia, this village in the Ligurian hinterland was simply Bussana. On 23 February 1887 at 6.21 a.m., an earthquake tremor occurred that changed the local geography forever. Within seconds, almost all the houses were destroyed, and the vault of the church collapsed on the faithful intent on attending mass.
Hundreds of people in Bussana lost their lives, buried in the rubble. Sadly, it wasn’t the only village hit by the earthquake. The 1887 earthquake reached many other towns in Liguria with similar damage. Suffice it to say that the plan to support earthquake victims provided aid for a vast area between the provinces of Imperia, Genoa and Cuneo.
When the houses of Bussana were declared unfit for habitation in 1889, the survivors began the construction of Bussana Nuova in its entirety further down the valley, near the sea and the railway.
The remaining inhabitants moved to Bussana Nuova, and the municipality of Sanremo closed all access to the village. Then Bussana Vecchia became a ghost town for about sixty years, until the advent of the first community of artists.
How Bussana Vecchia Came Back to Life as Artists’ Hub
In the 1950s, the story of the ghost town abandoned after the earthquake inspired some artists who decided to settle among its ruins. Inspirers of the community were the Turinese ceramist Mario Giani, aka Clizia, and the Sicilian painter Vanni Giuffré.
In a short time, the artists repopulated Bussana Vecchia. They adopted their own constitution to regulate the life and renovation of the premises. The abandoned houses were secured and became galleries, studios, shops and taverns, transforming the village’s appearance.
According to the International Artists’ Community of Bussana Vecchia rules, the ruins no longer belonged to anyone. Anyone was free to settle in, choose their own home and renovate it using only the materials still on the site, for artistic purposes only. When an artist decided to leave the village, the successor would only have to reimburse the expenses incurred for the renovation symbolically.
Some artists decided to settle permanently in Bussana Vecchia. Others visited only during the summer or stayed for a while without moving. Thus, its fame crossed borders, and the international artists’ commune became a tourist destination.
The Dispute Between the Artists and the Italian State
Compared to its origins as an open-air artistic haven, the artists’ village of Bussana Vecchia appears far less romantic today. The open workshops are not as “artistic” anymore, as mass tourism has attracted a variety of artisans, which is evident in the diverse “works” on display.
The houses and workshops also have a peculiar squatting and tax evasion history. On one hand, the artists’ collective has occupied the ruins without any official certification of habitability; in practice, this makes the inhabitants technically squatters.
For over sixty years, there has been a struggle between the Italian State and the artists’ community, marked by appeals and court judgments. The Italian State Property Office (Demanio dello Stato) is hesitant to take responsibility for allowing a technically uninhabitable area to remain occupied.
Meanwhile, the municipality of Sanremo, since the 1970s, has recognized the presence of the residents, issuing utility connections, residency permits, and business licenses to take advantage of the tourist boom despite several failed attempts to evict and reclaim the properties from their legitimate owners.
Must-See Attractions in Bussana Vecchia
Today, Bussana Vecchia seems a mountain village, like others in Northern Italy. Its unique feature is that ruins and artistic ateliers coexist there. Walking through its alleys is an interesting experience. You can feel the village’s rich history and enjoy the stunning view of the valley with the sea visible in the distance.
The landscape is impressive, and some ruins, such as the church of Sant’Egidio, are incredibly evocative. While the church lacks a ceiling, its bell tower remains miraculously intact. The main tourist attraction is the artists’ workshops, located throughout the village, often next to private homes.
You can explore Bussana Vecchia in just over half an hour, as the village is quite small. Over the years, it has attracted artists and visitors from around the world. As you walk through the town, you’ll hear a variety of languages spoken among the cobbled alleys. During summer evenings, there are live events such as concerts and art exhibitions.
The Church of Sant’Egidio ‘Chiesa Grande’
The church of Sant’Egidio is the most photographed ruin, the one that identifies Bussana Vecchia. The walls still standing, but without the ceiling, are truly impressive.
The bell tower, the only building that did not collapse during the 1887 earthquake, is, for the inhabitants of Bussana Vecchia, the symbol of the village. For safety reasons, you can only look at the large church of Sant’Egidio from the outside. Nevertheless, you can still see the original paintings and stucco work.
Sometimes, artists decorate the remains of the church with art installations. For example, when I visited it, there were some interwoven spider’s web-like threads inside.
The Artists’ Workshops
The best way to discover Bussana Vecchia is to stop and talk to the resident artists and visit their workshops. As the village has no rules and no opening hours, the workshops can be closed for no reason. During my visit, one shop even displayed an “elastic hours” sign.
Luckily, my son and I met Maria Rosa Kahnemann, an old Dutch painter eager for a chat. She is a resident and told us how the number of children visiting the village has increased over the years. Her paintings depict women’s faces framed by hats and colourful dresses.
Another workshop we liked was the one at the entrance to the village with beautiful metal sculptures. On the other hand, most of the “art” scattered around Bussana Vecchia looks just as garbage. If the coloured stones with hearts were lovely, the hanging CDs and cutlery gave more of the idea of poorly done upcycling.
The Model Railway
In the artists’ village, you can (theoretically) view the largest model railway in Italy, created by a group of enthusiasts. This model should be the replica of Liguria’s disused railway stations located by the sea, now Ponente Ligure Cycling Path.
Unfortunately, we were denied entry before we could see it, by a rather unfriendly lady who simply informed us that they were “in maintenance mode.”
The Garden Among the Ruins
Another attraction of Bussana Vecchia is the ‘Giardino tra i Ruderi’ (Garden Among the Ruins). I haven’t visit it as from the outside the garden seems just some plants scattered among the ruins. However, if you are interested, there is a space inside the garden dedicated to the history of the village.
During my visit, the entrance fee was €2.50, which included a tour of some of the ruins and information about the various plant species in the garden.
Essential Tips to Visit Bussana Vecchia
If you are fascinated by abandoned places, I recommend visiting Bussana Vecchia during the low season when tartartists’ workshops are closed. However, if you’re interested in experiencing the hippie vibe of the artists’ village, plan your visit between June and early September, when summer is in full swing.
It’s worth noting that the entire village is pedestrian-friendly, except for vehicles belonging to residents.
How to Reach Bussana Vecchia
You can reach Bussana Vecchia residents trails or via the main drivartists’ If you arrive by car; you’ll need to park outside the village along the road in available spaces.
The road to Bussana Vecchia is very narrow and has several sharp bends, making it difficult for larger vehicles to navigate. During the high season, you might be stuck between cars trying to enter and those trying to leave.
If you’re in a tight spot between vehicles, don’t panic, but take your time to reverse safely. You can only turn your car around at the beginning of the village, where there’s a designated manoeuvring are artists in front of a private residence just before.
While the road can be challenging, the parking situation is no better. In early September, the line of parked cars extended for quite a distance along the road. My suggestion is to travel to Bussana Vecchia in a small car or, even better, by motorbike. Don’t even dare to reach the village in a campervan!
Where to Eat in Bussana Vecchia
At the village entrance, there is a drinking water fountain where you can fill your water bottle, although there isn’t a designated picnic area. We ate our picnic sat uncomfortably on a small wall near the church of Sant’Egidio. However, if you prefer, there are several restaurants nearby.
The first restaurant you will encounter is called Sant’Egidio, which overlooks the valley. It offers beautiful views and friendly staff and serves traditional cuisine. It has received positive reviews, and the dishes appear very appetizing.
A little further along is the Osteria degli Artisti, the oldest restaurant in the village, which features a panoramic terrace. Finally, in Bussana Vecchia, there is also Ristorante Naturale, a macrobiotic vegan restaurant that offers fresh fish as well.
Where to Stay in Bussana Vecchia
If Bussana Vecchia fascinates you so much that you want to stop for the night, there are also two bed & breakfasts. The first, B&B Wilmot, is run by Colin Sidney Wilmot, a painter and sculptor who was one of the first inhabitants of the village. The other alternative is the B&B Apriti Sesamo run by Ristorante Naturale.
Bussana Vecchia: Love or Hate
If you’re wondering whether visiting Bussana Vecchia, I’m still uncertain. Honestly, I had enough visiting once, but I was glad to see it for myself.
I had higher expectations regarding the artistic vibe of Bussana Vecchia. Still, I found very little art and quite a bit of clutter. On the other hand, my son had a great time exploring the village’s narrow streets.
Numerous people support the artists of Bussana Vecchia but haven’t perceived it as an artist’s haven. To me, it felt more like a squatter village.
Feel free to share your thoughts about Bussana Vecchia. Does it live on a reputation from the past, or do you believe it still has a lot to offer as a tourist destination?
